My relationship with Buenos Aires started about 20 years ago when I came across the music band Gotan Project.
These musicians, self-described as Argentinians in exile in Paris, fused tango with modern beats. I was immediately enthralled.
Songs like Queremos Paz, Mi Confesion, and Santa Maria have carved a sizeable space for the Argentinian capital in my consciousness. I was finally able to see it recently while on a reporting trip in South America.
Buenos Aires is often called the "Paris of South America,” but let’s ditch this label. The city stands on its own.
According to the Economic Commission for Latin America, over 13 million people call Buenos Aires metro area home. The city is spread over numerous barrios and it can be overwhelming to know where to start your visit.
While capturing everything worth knowing about Buenos Aires in one guide is impossible, consider this work as a starting point.
💡 Don’t miss the Google Maps list at the end of this guide with all the spots mentioned!
Get context
Argentina has been going through economic hardship. In 2024, the currency has devalued by more than 50% against the dollar, while prices have skyrocketed.
In Buenos Aires, it's not uncommon to see people asking for money and sleeping on the streets. A taxi driver I met one day told me that more people keep ending up on the streets because they can no longer afford rent.
At the same time, neighborhoods like the ones you’ll see in this guide continue to be frequented by travelers, carrying goods unattainable to many Argentinians.
In Argentina, like in other countries around the world, the gap between those who have means and those who do not is wide. Be aware of this as you move through the streets of Buenos Aires
Where to stay
Depending on how much time you have in the city, you will want to see these key neighborhoods: Palermo, San Telmo, Recoleta, Microcentro, La Boca, and Puerto Madero.
All of these barrios are located in the central part of Buenos Aires, but it’s sprawling; to get from one neighborhood to another, you’ll need to take a car or use public transport.
I recommend staying in Recoleta, an upscale neighborhood with facades, cafes, and streets that did remind me of Paris at times.
Recoleta is centrally located and makes for an easy trip to Palermo to the west and San Telmo, Puerto Madero, and Microcentro to the south.
During my time in Buenos Aires, I visited three neighborhoods: Recoleta, San Telmo, and Palermo SoHo.
Here are some excellent things to do in each.
Recoleta
Recoleta is the neighborhood I stayed in during my trip to Buenos Aires. I chose it for its central location, safety, and walkable streets.
I booked Arc Recoleta, a 3-star hotel on a quiet street just off Avenida Santa Fe, a busy artery that runs through this part of the city.
The hotel itself was not that special, but it was a decently-priced option with a spacious room, floor-to-ceiling windows, a balcony, and a tea kettle–all the things I need in a hotel room to be happy. (I do not recommend their breakfast.)
Recoleta Cemetery
One of the main attractions of this neighborhood is the Recoleta Cemetery, a quiet, peaceful, and somber area in the bustling city, where many of Argentina’s notable citizens from the 19th and 20th centuries are buried.
The cemetery features over 90 notable burial tombs, impeccable grounds, and religious statues that look eerily alive.
What draws most visitors to the cemetery is the modest grave of Evita Peron. The former First Lady is buried here inside the Duarte family mausoleum.
I popped in around closing time at 5 pm and went back for a full visit at 9 am; the cemetery was not crowded at either time.
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Cemetery entrance fee: $16 for non-residents.
💡 Photo tip:
Just across the street from the cemetery, you’ll see a shopping mall called Urban Mall Recoleta.
While I’d skip the shopping there (it mostly has global brands you’ll see anywhere in the world), the 3rd floor has a beautiful view of the cemetery (find it by the Mostaza cafe on the left side when facing the cemetery).
For great specialty coffee in Recoleta, head to Kopi Cafe. This small coffee shop carries coffee so good that I went back several times. Be sure to get medialunas here: these are smaller, sweeter cousins of croissants.
While medialunas are ubiquitous in the city, several places I saw served them stale. At Kopi, I found fresh medialunas impossible to resist.
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